I have always admired the Japanese practice of removing shoes on entering a house and leaving them in the vestibule, usually in a cupboard designed especially for that purpose. I have never, however, seen anybody remove their high heels before entering a church with a cold stone floor. The owner of the red shoes in the photo even took car to place them on newspaper!
Seen in Calle San José, Albayzin, Granada, on December 20, 2021
These views were sent to us by a client, MDR, who bought her property earlier this year. The views are taken from her house approximately 40 kms north-west of Granada.
In the forground verdant olive groves, in the distance, approximately 80 kms away, are the peaks of the Sierra Nevada in the first week of December after the initial snowfall of late November.
We are privileged to live in such a beautiful environmemnt!
According to media reports a thirty-year-old contemporary art collector, Ana Martínez Frías, has acquired a 1.800 m2 historic building in Plaza Santa Ana, Granada, where she intends to create a mueseum of millenial art. Works from both new artists and established artists such as Avery Singer, Kelly Akashi and Anastasia Bay will be exhibited. The collector owns 250 works herself and these will be exhibited alongside works from fellow private collectors. She does not envisage this project as a commercial proposition but as a means to allow the public to view contemporary art, something which is lacking in the city despite the plethora of musuems the city already possesses.
Given the historic nature of the site and its protected status within the Alhambra Special Protection Area there are many bureaucratic hoops to leap through before the project can be realised, both at municipal and regional level. However, according to Ana Martínez her discussions with the various authorities have been entirely positive given that the authorities recognise the need for such a museum. The biggest difficulty, in planning terms, is that buildings within the zone of protection must be rebuilt in their former style and layout, which is unviable for an exhibition space. Fortunately, there is an exception for singular projects of this type. The fact that only the façade of the building remains standing after the interior was illegally demolished in 2007 will no doubt positively influence the opinion of the various bodies who must give their consent for the project to proceed. Currently the site has no viable use.
Rather than wait until 2023 when it is hoped that all necessary permits will have been obtained and work can start, Ana Martínez has acquired a second building, in the Gran Via de Colón, one of Granada's principal streets, where she will mount exhibitions of millenial art from Spring 2022, pending the construction of her main project.
The project will be entirely private and will not involve any public funding, at least initially. If it succeeds the city will owe Ana a great cultural debt.
Good news for property buyers in Andalucia!
There has been a lot of controversy about the amount of money required to reconstruct France's most iconic cathedral and where that money should come from. The French government immediately committed to the reconstruction. It struck me that the Catholic Church itself, one of the wealthiest organisations in the world, would have been a better source for the funds than the French taxpayer, with the money having to be found from budgets such as Education, Health, Culture etc. Probably for this reason I had to smile when I saw some of the suggestions as to how the new roof design might look. I particularlly like the one above and the practical solution to local parking problems provided below.
Allan Hilder
According to data just issued by the Bloomberg Global Health Index, Spain ranks as the healthiest country in the world, replacing Italy, the leader in the last survey. The index is based on various factors including longevity, infant mortality, rates of obesity and tobacco consumption, the health system and access to clean water etc.
Currently second on the list is Italy followed by Iceland and Japan. Sweden is 6th, Norway 9th, France 12th, Netherlands 15th, the UK 19th, Portugal 22nd, Germany 23rd, Denmark 25th, Belgium 28th and the USA 35th.
Although the overall level of property transactions are more than 30 % below their peak in the boom year of 2007, sales of existing houses, as opposed to new-builds, are fast approaching the levels seen in the boom. In 2018 422,500 used properties were sold compared to the height of 448.900 in 2007. More second-hand properties were sold in 2018 than in any year since 2007 and the trend is upwards.
Although this will definitely have an effect on prices, which are already on the increase as the graphs below show, in our particular niche of country properties, every one of them different, whether prices are rising, remaining stable or even falling depends more than anything else on the situation of the seller. My experience of prices over the past thirteen years is that we are still at a level very significantly lower than in the boom years and even now sellers will sometimes accept offers significantly lower than the price at which they are listed.
The following graphs and a table from two different sources provide a snapshot of how prices are moving in general and in Andalusia in particular.
TINSA - The largest firm of valuers in Spain
Movement of prices in Spain
The unemployment rate in Spain dropped, at the end of 2018, to its lowest level in a decade. From the peak of over 25% on 2013, the official rate has now fallen to 14.4%.
Although still high compared to the EU average of 6.6% or the Eurozone 7.9% it is perhaps as well to bear in mind the prevalence of cash in the Spanish economy. Many people, although officially unemployed, are receiving funds for work done outside of the official economy. And this applies to all walks of life, both employed and unemployed. Even architects and lawyers as well as painters and decorators, gardeners etc. like to enjoy part of their fees outside of the system.
Why else are 35% of all the Bin Ladens (€500 notes) in circulation in the Eurozone reputedly in Spain?
From 1st January 2019 the socialist government of Pedro Sánchez increased the minimum wage by a whopping 22%, the largest ever increase since the minimum wage was introduced. The level is now set at €900 per month in a 14 month year (double payments were traditional in May and August) or €1.050 per month if paid on a 12 month basis. There is even a rumoured plan to increase it again in 2020 (if Sr. Sánchez manages to stay in office!) to €1.000 for a 14 month or €1.167 per month on a 12 month payment basis.
Most economists would applaud such an increase as the lowest paid tend not to have the chance to save but spend all of their income on daily living thereby pumping money into the economy. The likely effects of this move, according to some commentators were that it would drive more low paid jobs into the insecure black economy, lower the number of future hirings, raise the rate of inflation and cause the loss of existing jobs. It looks like this last fear may have come to pass.
In Spain there are thousands of people contracted and losing their jobs on a daily basis, partly because of the widespread use of fixed term contracts (usually of six months duration). On 1st January 2019 there were 274.000 losses a figure not seen for a decade. In 2018 there were 176.000 and in 2011 only 57.000. This may simply be a blip as the market adjusts and prices rise slightly to accommodate the rise in wages, which hits agriculture and the hotel industry hardest, both of which depend heavily on unskilled manual work such as harvesting and the cleaning of bedrooms.
So, what seems initially to be a boon to the lower paid may result only in workers being pressurised to increase productivity and/or a reduction in the hours worked.
Recently published data on the number of mortgages conceded by financial institutions continues to show a modest but sustained upward trend as the graph from Idealist below shows.
Rock bottom was hit at the end of 2013 but by late 2018 the number of mortgages granted, although a long way from the giddy heights of the boom years had returned to the levels of mid-2011.
Whether this growth will be maintained is uncertain as, although the economy is growing well, recent changes in legislation affecting the costs that banks must bear when conceding mortgages may place a brake on the market until these institutions work out how best to make money in a new environment.
Partly caused by the banning of the minimum interest rate clause (la clausula suelo) in Spanish mortgages (see my earler article) there has been a dramatic shift from Base Rate Plus mortgages to Fixed Interest mortgages. At the end of 2015 Fixed Rate mortgages represented less than 10% of the total. By mid 2018 it was 40%.
This has been accompanied by a decrease in the average interest rate charged due, in part, to fiercer competition between financial institutions. Wheres in early 2009 the rate was 5.5% by Autumn 2018 it has dropped to 2.6%.
With the recovery in the economy and increasing property prices, there has been a commensurate increase in the number of mortgages granted which have grown steadily since late 2013. At around 30.000 per month they are a long way from the heights of the boom but the new law on mortgages whereby the costs are switched from the borrower to the lender is expected to boost the growth considerably. This is likely to accelerate the annual growth in property prices which stood at +7.2% for the thrird quarter of 2018.
Banks, not borrowers, must pay the costs
The Spanish government, under pressure from the EU, has clarified who must pay what in terms of costs when a borrower agrees a mortgage loan with a bank. Previously, all charges were paid by the borrower and they were onerous. Now all of the charges, except a valuation of the property, must be paid by the bank and the abusive minimum interest rate clause (la cláusula suelo) has been banned. The charges involved are:
So, the borrower will now save some €5.500 in costs when taking out a loan of €200.000.
How will the bank recover these costs?
Firstly by becoming much more efficient. Banks have been in a rush to merge since the crisisi of 2007-2008. And even some of the mergers, have merged again. Branches have been closed at an extraordinarily rapid rate. Internet banking has caught on and clients are no longer prepared to queue at branches whose practices had changed little in decades.
I read an article recently which highlighted just how much Spain has changed since the death of Franco in 1975 and the adoption of the new constitution in 1978. Whilst many countries have experienced significant change in this period, Spain's transition from a dictatorship, under which industries producing poor quality goods were protected, to a modern democracy with an open economy, has seen a seismic shift. Entry into the European Union in 1986 has undoubtedly been one of the motors behind this change. Spain is still a net beneficiary of EU funds, although to a lesser extent than in the past, and this, together with a desire for political stability, explains why the Spanish are such enthusiastic Europeans. The table below shows just how great the change has been in the past forty years.
Spain is in an anomalous position with regard to separating the state from the Catholic church.
State schools are all lay institutions and religion is taught only as an option. In my daughter’s school the majority of students opt for Valores Éticos (Ethical Values) instead. This is an interesting choice encompassing debates about racism, citizens rights and obligations, discussion of news topics etc.
Following on from my article about the decline in those who regard themselves as Christians (a fall from 92% brought up as Christians to 66% who remain Christians in adulthood) it is interesting to note that only roughly half of that percentage (35%) elect to tick the box on their annual tax return (la casilla de la iglesia) that diverts taxes to the Catholic church.
However, this diversion of funds deprives the state of approximately €250 millions annually, a figure that has not declined despite the crises of the past ten years. So, where does this money go to? Much of it pays the salaries of 22.000 priests who receive €12.600 p.a tax free together with their accommodation and associated costs such as electricity, water etc. and the salaries of 113 bishops and archbishops who receive €17.500 p.a. plus accommodation, a car and chauffeur.
These salaries account for roughly 70% of the diverted taxes, the rest is paid over to the various dioceses for other expenses. Although there is a tacit understanding between church and state that services for followers are provided free there are a vast array of additional services that the clergy charge for, whether directly or as chaplains to prisons, hospitals, brotherhoods, teachers of religion in schools or colleges etc.
On a recent trip through Sevilla province I stopped to meet a colleague at a roadside restaurant near Marchena.
I ordered a bottle of water while I was waiting. The waiter asked what tapas I wanted with the water. I opted for chipirones (baby squids). The dish arrived with a potato and red pepper salad. Delicious.
When I came to pay I could barely believe the cost €1.00. Yes, one euro. Only the water is charged for.
(Apologies for the dirty knife and fork. I'd already eaten one chipirone when I took the photo!)
According to research by the Pew Research Institute a significant proportion of Spaniards who grew up as Catholics have lost their faith in adulthood. The drop in adherents in Spain is one of the most pronounced in Western Europe. Only Belgium and Norway have seen a greater drop.
Of the respondents to their survey undertaken between April and August 2017, 92% stated thay had been raised Christinan (which in post-Inquisition Spain means Catholic) but only 66% remained Christian in adulthood as the graph below shows.
Of the 66% who consider themselves still to be Christian only 21% attend church at least once a month, slightly more than the U.K. but less than Austria, Germany or Switzerland.
Finally, the propertion of respondents who state that they are atheists, agnostics or have no religion is higher in Spain than all Western European countries surveyed apart from the Benelux countries and the Scandinavian countries of Norway and Sweden.
This research depicts a country that perhaps few people outside of Spain would recognise. It is certainly one of the most tolerant and socially liberal Western societies with a less negative opinion of muslims and with gay marriage and same sex-adopition legalised since 2005.
Granada is the city of the pomegranate…or is it?
It is pomegranate season in the northern hemisphere and, if you have spent any time in Granada, you will soon realise that this slightly grumpy-looking fruit is very much part of the city’s heritage.
Look at some of the beautiful painted pottery, and you will see a pomegranate is the main motif; look down and you’ll see pavement bollards are decorated with them, look up and you’ll see them hanging from the trees, especially in the Albaicín. Why? Because the city was thought to have been renamed after the fruit during the Moorish period and, now, it is Granada’s heraldic device (i.e. part of its coat of arms).
However, the origins of where Granada gets its name from are in fact not quite so straightforward. The word ‘pomegranate’ in English is said to derive from medieval Latin, from the words for apple and seeded and in old French the fruit was known as the ‘pomme-grenade’ but the name of the city doesn’t derive from ‘grenade’ at all but from the Arabic word Garnata, which is said to mean ‘Hill of Strangers’. The original settlement was on the plain and therefore difficult to protect, so in the 11th century, the Berber ruler moved his home to one of the hills beside the Darro and the city that we now know was born. So, though the fruit is a wondrous image to have at the heart of a city’s identity, it is not the heart of its name!
One of the greatest draws of Andalucia is its geographical position. Apart from the obvious attractions of the heat and the sunshine, it also offers access to mountains (the Sierra Nevada) and the Mediterranean. And, if you want to find a property that is well situated to make the most of both of those, then it might be worth considering the Lecrin Valley.
Located south of Granada, and about 30 minutes north of the coast, it gets just as much sunshine in the summer as the rest of the region but, thanks to its position at the foot of the sierras, it also gets lovely cooling breezes. The name of the valley apparently derives from the Arabic word for ‘gateway’ but, according to some websites and locals ‘el Valle de Lecrin’ means ‘Valley of Happiness’ and that seems more apt. Sunny, yet not too hot, peaceful, yet well connected, rich in agriculture and wildlife, it is a perfect place for either a permanent retreat or a holiday home. And, thanks to being slightly less well known, it tends to be cheaper than the Alpujarra.
At the bottom of the valley, you will find Lake Beznar, a man-made reservoir which looks like a natural lake (apart from the dam!). At 170 hectares, its turquoise waters can be seen from miles around and, if you don’t want to head to the coast, here you can swim, fish and go out on a (non-motorised) boat.
Famous for citrus and almonds, one of the best times to explore this area is when their blossom appears, usually at the end of January for almonds and April for citrus. Early autumn is also very beautiful and, since it is not as hot as the summer, it lends itself to enjoying this countryside through walking, cycling and horse-riding.
If you are from northern Europe and move south, whether to France, Italy or Spain, you will quickly become aware that there are a lot more holidays, or holy days, than in your own country. Sometimes they are connected to Catholicism, sometimes they are national holidays but they will all, without fail be celebrated in style. This week’s holiday, on Wednesday, is called Columbus Day in US English, El Día de la Hispanidad (the Day of Spanishness) or Fiesta Nacional de España in Spain and it commemorates the day that Christopher Columbus arrived in the Americas in 1492. It is one of two national days (hey, why have one when you can have two), the other being December 6th, El Día de la Constitución, also traditionally one of the biggest days in the Spanish Christmas calendar.
National holidays, in fact most holidays, in Spain are very much made the most of. Whereas in somewhere like Britain, they are often spent on motorways or slumped on the sofa, a Spanish national holiday always involves a party, a fiesta. In Madrid, there is a big parade and, since the 12th is also the Spain’s Day of the Armed Forces, a fly-past by the Air Force’s aeronautics team.
In other parts of the country, work and study will be abandoned for a family get-together or a day out. Be prepared for shops and banks to be shut, as well as museums and sites of interest. It can be extremely frustrating, if you are used to being able to do things on a national holiday (in the US, for example, Columbus Day stops very little) but, once you live in Spain, taking the time to see people or have a party when everyone else does will make you feel completely en su casa.
Summer may be nearly over but we look back with fondness on exciting times last month. Unlike in countries in the North of the continent, here in Spain as in France and many other Catholic countries, the 15th August is a public holiday, a day on which no business will get done. For anyone used to a 24-hour culture of work, this can be extremely annoying but proper holy-days, as in days where everything is closed, are an extremely important part of Spanish life. Embracing them, and all the enjoyment they offer, will help you feel like a real resident, not just a tourist. The pace here is slower, and adjusting is key.
Here are some of the highlights in Andalucia. Be sure not to miss them next year!.
In Almería, from the 17-25th August, the region celebrates the Fiesta of the Virgin of the Sea, on August 20th, in Vejer de la Frontera, there is a night-time flamenco festival, Malaga’s horse-racing season continues until August 26th, in Niebla (in Huelva province) the theatre and dance festival starts in July and continues until August 28th. Later in the month, in Cadiz, enjoy the livestock market as part of the Feria Real de San Agustin (28th-31st) and, in Baeza, Jaen, from August 28th to September 3rd, the pilgrimage of the Virgen del Rosell, patron saint of La Yedra takes place: watch the Virgen’s statue being taken from her sanctuary in her village to the town of Baeza, and see the streets full of gypsy carriages and wagons. Finally, in Ronda, enjoy the Feria de Pedro Romero, which starts with a parade at 7.30pm on August 30th and continues to the 4th September.
You can find out more about festivals all year round in Andalucia here.
Most of northern Europe has lost sight of such traditions and festivals, except for a few key ones; in Spain they are a reminder that this is both a notionally religious country and, perhaps more importantly, one that takes celebrations very seriously indeed!
English
Nederlands
Français
Deutsch
Español
